The Climate Crisis : Climate Anarchy


Fashion has an impact in climate change.

Are we consenting to ignore the future consequences of our present actions?

Nature’s cycles are changing and we are the witnesses and the catalysts, going against ecological systems and destroying the planet’s treasures year by year.

New generations have the mission to urge moral purpose, due to the consequences they are living in, in order to unify a commom cause: moral and spiritual change.

Fashion is one of the dirtiest industries in the world, the second most polluting business after oil. The lack of ethics and morals is present in the use of child labour, animal harvesting and environmental catastrophes.

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For example, it can take 20,000 litres of water to produce 1kg of cotton, which represents approximately 1 t-shirt or 1 pair of jeans. Cotton is one of the biggest crops in the world and the one that requires the most insecticides and pesticides.  Unsafe chemicals can cause severe health consequences in workers and eco-systems.

In 1984, Bhopal, in India, a leak of chemical gas was referred to as the world’s worst industrial disaster. The leak ocurred at the Union Carbide India Limited, a pesticide plant in Bhopal.

The poison cloud was so dense and searing that people were reduced to near blindness. As they gasped for breath its effects grew ever more suffocating. The gases burned the tissues of their eyes and lungs and attacked their nervous systems. People lost control of their bodies. Urine and faeces ran down their legs. Women lost theirs unborn children as they ran, their wombs spontaneously opening in bloody abortion.


Stiched-up: the anti-capitalist book of fashion, Tansy E. Hopkins

The area around the factory was used as a dumping ground for hazardous chemicals, causing irreversible effects to the soil and water.


Petrochemicals are used in the production of polyester, consuming large amounts of energy and are responsible for the rise of harmful emissions such as heavy metal cobalt, manganese salts, sodium bromide, antimony oxide and titanium dioxide.


Nylon or polyamide fibres are based on petrochemicals, and the process to transform raw materials into nylon fibres is energy intensive: 1 kg of fabric consumes 150 MJ.  It also produces nitrous oxide which is a potent greenhouse gas.

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The production of large volumes of specific fibres is increasing the ecological risks. The need for a sustainable strategy is urgent! 

Some of the solutions

  • Consumers buying less
  • Recycling
  • Lower-impact fibres
  • New textile approaches
  • Increase of sustainable designers

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Approximately more than half a trilion gallons of fresh water are used in the process of dyeing textiles. Clothing manufacturers often dump chemicals and untreated water into rivers, which can spread throughout the world.


Companies have moved to countries where manufacturing is cheaper and force the shipment of garments in containers for transportation. The fuel burned on those ships is 1000 times dirtier than diesel used in the trucking industry, and can eventually produce cancer or asthma due to the amount of pollutants.


The future of fashion and the future of our planet depend on the choices we make today. It is essential to re-think the whole textile industry lifecycle, minimizing its environmental and  social effects.


“Climate Anarchy” photo shoot directed  and Styled by me Taja_asiul

Photographer: Laura Viktualia Facebook 

Model: Maude Fornerod: Facebook ; Instagram 

MUA: Toma Trybyte Facebook ; Instagram

Sustainable and Ethical clothes by : Ethical Collection

Cow’s Milk, Fast Fashion and Sweatshops

Why sustainability?

Why eco-friendly?

Why vegan?

Ethics in fashion?


The answer to these questions summarises my work, beliefs and why I started to engage with different attitutes and actions towards my daily routine, changing my goals and my perspective of the world.




I am vegan, however for many years I was only vegetarian. I was used to consuming milk and cheese, thinking I could not ever give up of such good delicacies: pizza, pies, pastries, cheese toast, my daily cappucino or just simple snacks of cheese on crackers. I thought I was happy with dairy products…until I finally faced the reality.

Ancient Medical History is full of deceptions that have since fell into disrepute in modern days: doctors spitting on wounds because was believed that spit had healing properties; or trepanation, where the doctor used to drill the patient’s skull to treat health problems.

The myth about “drinking milk is good for the bones and overall body” is another deception.  In reality cow’s milk can increase calcium loss on the bones.

“Like all animal protein, milk acidifies the body pH which in turn triggers a biological correction. You see, calcium is an excellent acid neutralizer and the biggest storage of calcium in the body is – you guessed it… in the bones. So the very same calcium that our bones need to stay strong is utilized to neutralize the acidifying effect of milk. Once calcium is pulled out of the bones, it leaves the body via the urine, so that the surprising net result after this is an actual calcium deficit.”   by The Save Institute

Some mainstream practitioners still ignore these facts, recommending dairy products in our diet, cooperatively with other drugs in case of osteoporosis disease. There are other natural and better sources of calcium such as broccoli, kale, cabbage, dried fruits, nuts, seeds, peas, beans or lentils.

Studies say that the regular absortion of certain foods can help you achieve 1000 miligrams calcium, which is the average amount for an adult.  A cup of tofu has approximatelly 861mg; half a cup of dry oats has 200 miligrams of calcium, where it is possible to add between 300mg and 400mg of calcium with almond milk; one and a half cups of chickpeas have between 315 miligrams of calcium;a mixed salad with dark green leafs can provide over 500 miligrams of calcium.

All these foods have more calcium than a cup of milk, which only has approximatelly 300mg. By ingesting these foods we are improving our general health and bone issues in a better way than just consuming dairy products.


Plus, do you know how the milk is provided?


Cows, like us, like to play with e acknowledgedh other and they nurture they calves just like a human mother takes care of her baby.  However, in the dairy industry most of the cows don’t have the possibility to interact with each other or with their calves, being confined to small places while they are stimulated with antibiotics and hormones in order to produce more and more milk.

Cows produce milk with the same purpose as humans: to feed their babies. However, after giving birth they lactate for 10 months and then they are inseminated again, repeting the cycle.  Their living conditions are atrocious, being forced to stand the majority of their lives, being rippe from their calves and spending all their lives being “raped” for the sake of the milk industry.

I changed my diet for the ones without a voice. I changed because of the animals, knowing that I could be part of a minority that hopefully in the future could increase their voice and consequently, animal’s rights.



Fast Fashion

In university, while I studied about sustainability and fast fashion, I was faced with another critical aspect, the fast fashion business.

As a fashionista myself, every week I planned my journey to the high street stores in order to buy the new trends and collections, discarding old clothes that I almost never used as a fear of looking ‘uncool’.

With my research I found out that fast fashion clothes are made based on the premise high volume/ less quality, being full of hazardous chemicals that can deteriorate our health. Also, these clothes are made with synthethic, petroleum-based fibres, taking decades to decompose.

Nevertheless, with around 52 micro seasons, the clothes are designed to be “on trend” for just a couple of months maximum, being compulsively substituted with new designs. This process, cooperatively with fashion marketing, creates pressure and fear into one’s mind, forcing a visit to the shop to buy more “in trend” pieces to fight the horror of social alienation.


Beads and sequins?

On 2008, BBC1 recorded “Panorama: Primark on the Rack” which demonstrates poor worker conditions, child labour, low wages, excessive work hours and unfair work in refugees camps.

Beading is a process that demands specialized machines, which are often expensive and can only be purchased by garment factories. Some overseas factories can’t afford the investiment, forcing the workers into a fast-paced working rhythm where the majority are children, due to their small hands which can easily sew sequins and beads.


In conclusion, through my research and curiosity, I became a more conscious consumer. I don’t want to live my daily routine knowing that what I wear or consume are products of injustice or torture. I am still educating myself, something that should never stop,  about buying less, buying used and always asking myself “Where did this come from?” “Who made this?”.

Education and information are essential, and it is up to us to become the pioneers of change.



“Matrix” photo shoot directed by me Taja_asiul

Photographer: @jamesrgee

Model: Maude Fornerod @maude.fornerod ; Maude Professional Facebook 




Designing for empathy. Upcycling and downcycling

Hello everyone, this is the second part of my post regarding the book A practical guide to sustainable fashion by Alison Gwilt.

I found some interesting topics such as textile recycling, upcycling and Closed-loops, which are important for the understanding of some aspects of sustainability in fashion.

While the designer is focused on sustainable strategies towards the design and production, it can be difficult to focus on the use and disposal stages of a garment’s life cycle. That is why a closed-loop system of production is important.

What is a closed-loop system?

A closed loop system of production provides an opportunity to reuse the materials of a product that has come to the end of its useful life. The materials are either considered compostable or are recycled into new products, typically of the same variety as the original product.

Between the clothing item and the wearer, there is an empathetic relationship, where the wearer will have to  provide some maintenance actions in order to provide a longer life to the item.

The understanding of this relationship is essential for the designer. This way, the designer can assess which atributes are desired and which are inconsiderable, in order to design a specific garment with unique characteristics, increasing its use.


As a designer it is essential to do a field test, in order to understand what people want from their clothing, gathering information for future collections and creating design for empathy.

Besides the selection of techniques, is also important the selection of fabrics and materials. The fabrics selected should have minimal impact (dying and bleaching) and can potentially display its distinctive natural fibre.



Fair Trade?

Fair trade aspire to support developing communities by paying fair prices for their services while reinvesting profit back to the community.

If you see a cotton that has the FAIRTRADE logo it means farmers are receiving a fair price for their cotton. In relation with organic cotton, there are companies who support designers and help monitoring sustainable practices, such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or the Soil Association.

Designers can always request help from fabric specialists and yarn suppliers, ethical manufacturers and sustainable organisations with the sourcing process.


Which fabrics can be recycled?

The possibilities of recycling a fabric increase if that fabric contains an uncontaminated mono-material (single fibre type). The recycling of fabrics contaminated with unsuitable fibres or treatments can reduced the value of the material, being called ‘downcycled’.

By using mono-materials the designer can use other techniques in order to change the visual aspect without corrupt the fibre, such as laser cutting or needle-punching.

This fibres can successfully accomplish being part closed-loop systems.


Zero-waste techniques

In pattern-making and toiling phase the fabric waste is common, however it is possible to apply some techniques ir order to avoid it.

  1. draping – approach used in the works of the couturier Madeleine Vionnet
  2. directly weaving the pieces of a garment into the correct size and shape
  3. designer needs to move confidently through the three-dimensional form and the two-dimensional pattern making



What it is? Its the technique of upgrading or adding value to a product that was discarded in the past. By upcycling it is possible to increase the value of the garment and prolonging its life.

Sometimes by recycling, some materials need to go through processes that can possible damage the initial value of the fibres (downcycling).

By doing upcycling, the designer can test his creativity, being able to do unique pieces without damaging or using extra fabrics. However, upcycling can require extra time and patience by cleaning up cycled pieces or by deconstruct them.



Textile recycling

What happens? Fibres are separated by chemical or mechanical processes. This fibres can be remanufactured and used in several different contexts, however by recycling, the original value of the fibre has been downgraded.


Pictures by me in Praia do Guincho, Portugal.


Clothing supply chain: rethinking design

This post is based on the reading of the book A practical guide to sustainable fashion by Gwilt, Alison.

This book is enriched with valuable information for designers who wish to learn how to apply sustainability and ethical values on their creations, however, as a non-designer myself, I found it really interesting. It is filled with key issues regarding the production and disposal of clothing, talking about eco-friendly fashion designers and companies. It also has some exercises that help motivate us to research, creating a cycle map of a fashion item analysing the environmental and social impacts.

So…should we rethink fashion design?

The fashion industry has been developing, however the process involves a general set of steps and stages known as ‘the supply chain’, which include: design, sample-making, selection, manufacturing and distribution.

The role of the fashion designer is essential within creation and development, controlling and making decisions towards a desirable product.

The production and distribution of clothing has a large impact environmentally and socially, attached with ethical and sustainable concerns.

up cycling
can our fashion items be part of a closed-loop system?

Consumerism and fast fashion are the main reason for the actual obsession in bringing runway trends to the high street as fast as possible, which might cause impacts in the supply chain. The fashion network of the supply chain is global, involving a large amount of people, countries and laws/legislations.

Meanwhile, the consumption of fashion has been increasing. The ‘use phase’ is the stage when the customer buys an item and its consequent life cycle from there on. The use phase includes wearing, washing, drying, storing, alterations and repairing. Studies affirm that the majority of the environmental impacts associated with clothing are created during the use phase, due to the laundering process which implies the use of water, chemicals and energy.


The disposal of garments is increasing
Think well all the options, before the disposal of a clothing item: can it be repaired? Can you transform it? Should you donate it to someone?

It is possible to think that an item could be recycled, donated to someone or disposed into a landfill. For this reason Sustainable Fashion is important and with that, a sustainable designer who understands the impacts of our daily clothing.

In nowadays, is essential to evolve the significance of eco design and accept new contemporary methods that can be used throughout the supply chain, and cause less impact on the use phase.

Eco or green design attempts to avoid the environmental impacts that are associated with a garment during its life cycle. The aim is to prevent, reduce or eliminate impacts that may pollute, destroy or reduce the planet’s natural resources.

Sustainable design embraces three key areas: society, environment and economy, becoming the main focus of the designers to manage the three at the same time.

This way, sustainable fashion focuses on the life cycle of a garment and on its particular supply chain.


Fashion supply chain
Social and environmental impacts along the clothing supply chain. Made by me, inspired by “A practical guide to sustainable fashion”


The fashion industry is facing issues regarding social and ethical affairs related with fast fashion, however the future of fashion can change if designers and related companies work together, towards a green revolution: sourcing appropriate fabrics (which can be easily recycle, not demanding too much treatment or which don’t harm innocent animal lives), avoid the adoption of harmful chemicals on the production and administer reasonable and fair wages and work conditions to the employees.

If you are a designer and you are thinking in making improvements and becoming more sustainable within your creations, these are the steps to take:

  1. map a life cycle of the product to be developed;
  2. identify the environmental and social impacts of your product;
  3. evaluate the results of  the 1st and 2nd steps;
  4. engage with sustainable strategies which can eliminate negative impacts from the garment’s life cycle.

life cycle of a garment

by mapping a life cycle, a designer can easily understand and evaluate sustainable actions of the designs and assess improvements on the process. Engaging with a strategy helps focusing towards aims and objectives.

Above are some strategies given by A practical guide to sustainable fashion:

  • Minimizing the consumption of resources
  • Choosing low-impact processes and resources
  • Improving production techniques
  • Improving distribution systems
  • Reducing the impacts created during use
  • Improving the garment’s lifetime
  • Improving the use of end-of-life systems


There is also the economic component where the designer is focused on trends and market targets, however it is possible to apply sustainable strategies, during the development of the production of a collection.

Pictures by me in Praia do Guincho, Portugal.



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